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Sally Burke's avatar

I smiled when I saw I was one of many who must have missed the Spanish section in the Louvre. It is a place possibly best being on a guided tour as we couldn’t find some areas we were looking for and in the end gave up. I’m glad you enjoyed your visit in Castres, Spain, and agree the gardens are amazing. Definitely the need for a full time gardener there.

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Betty Carlson's avatar

The Louvre is such a huge place, so I don't think many people would go there specifically for the Spanish collection or even notice it unless they were seeking out a specific artist. It was pleasant to visit a stand-alone collection and feel like I had plunged into it adequately, although I could have used a little more time to be honest.

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Rachel Shenk's avatar

Thanks to you, Castres is calling! I need to plan a trip to that area.

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Betty Carlson's avatar

Occitanie is, I think, likely the most varied region in France. Depending on what you’re looking for, any number of entire trips could be based just around it. I’ve lived here nearly 30 years and am just starting to venture out of the département that it took me that long to get to know, Aveyron.

If you seriously plan a trip here, don’t hesitate to contact me by DM.

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Rachel Shenk's avatar

We’re usually in the Var but have gone further afield numerous times. Thanks!

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David Gemeinhardt's avatar

I like museums, Spanish art, gardens, and Le Nôtre, so you've convinced me. Castres is duly penciled on to my ever-lengthening list.

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Betty Carlson's avatar

I hoped you would read and notice the Le Nôtre garden. What I was not able to convey was how the whole former episcopal palace area is so beautifully redone. Along with the Place Jean Jaurès that I previously posted about, one really feels like it’s a bigger city than it is.

There is a nice partnership between 4 mid-sized city museums in Occitanie: the Musée Soulages in Rodez; the Musée Goya ET DE l’ART HISPANIQUE, the Musée Toulouse-Lautrec in Albi. and the Musée Ingres Bourdelle in Montauban. They’ve all been renovated recently, except Soulages of course which was built in 2014.

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David Gemeinhardt's avatar

Oh, I see. Do visitors to one get discounted admission to the others?

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Betty Carlson's avatar

Yes, with one ticket you get a reduced entrance fee to the three others, good for a year….you need to hang on to the ticket, though! I think the main target is people who live in the area.

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David Gemeinhardt's avatar

Good to know, thanks!

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Gabi of Journey Jots's avatar

Castres is now on my to-visit list, thank you! I share your view on Goya, and I like the Asneria :)

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Betty Carlson's avatar

I truly would certainly have visited Castres sooner if I had bothered to look into the true nature of the museum. However since it just reopened in April 2023, I’m glad I discovered it in its new incarnation — apparently it’s much improved.

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Lloyd Dallett's avatar

I can't wait to return to Castres! Went a few years ago and remember mostly just limestone streets and some nice shops. Looking forward to seeing the museum. You are doing such a wonderful thing by sharing your discoveries- we are moving to the area (as I wrote previously) and your blog is so helpful! THANK YOU!!

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Betty Carlson's avatar

Thank you for your comment. I did notice that Castres had a lot of nice shops, and spread over a large area of the city, including across the river from the Place Jean-Jaures. At the museume, there's going to be a major Mariano Fortuny y Marsal exhibit with loans from the Musée d'Orsay starting in December 2024 -- how soon are you moving to the area?

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Lloyd Dallett's avatar

Coming back in End of February for about 5 months! Will check that out! Do you ever visit Gaillac and Albi area?

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Susie Mawhinney's avatar

I shamefully admit, the museum wouldn't draw my attention hugely, but Le Jardin de l’Evêché designed by André Le Nôtre - definitely!

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Betty Carlson's avatar

Well, I'm not sure I did it justice...The collection is so varied, for example there are a number of impressionist/post-impressionist works from painters I'd never heard of that I really enjoyed. And the lighting, wall painting, legends, and general set-up of the galleries are just lovely.

On paper, however, I may be like you -- I wasn't inherently that attracted to all of the pre-19th century religious and secular Spanish art, but since the museums takes one step by step through its history, and also makes connections between the different periods, I really learned a lot and found myself being swept away by works that I wouldn't spend time on in a big museum.

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Elisabeth Sauvage-Callaghan's avatar

Another great piece about Castres!

I am probably not as terrified by Goya's art as you are. But yes, he is quite dark. I loved your discussion of other Spanish art in the Goya Museum in Castres, and just loved "Asneria" bu Pilar Abaraccin. This artist's work is very interesting!

It was also fascinating to read that André Le Nôtre designed the jardin de l'évêché!

I love the polls in your articles, they are so much fun!!!

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Betty Carlson's avatar

Thanks for the comment! There were so many interesting paintings in the museum — I definitely liked a bunch that were post-impressionistic as well.

That’s the first comment I’ve gotten about the polls — they are fun to write. I think I’ll continue with them. Quite a few people do them, which is something I wasn’t sure about.

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Caroline McCormick-Clarke🐆🧀🎨✍️'s avatar

Betty - I do enjoy your dry, witty writing style. And I do love the Languedoc.

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Betty Carlson's avatar

Thank you! I try to keep an occasional sense of humor.

What parts of the Languedoc have you visited?

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Caroline McCormick-Clarke🐆🧀🎨✍️'s avatar

It’s been a while, but we stayed in a small village called Paraza along the canal du midi but I loved Narbonne, Beziers, Gruissan , Minervois and Carcassonne of course. Some great wines too

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Betty Carlson's avatar

That's an area I quite like, especially Narbonne and the Minervois. I've only been to Béziers quickly -- I need to get back there.

Oddly, I've never cared for Carcassonne. I guess it's just too touristy, and I find the surrounding countryside a bit bleak. The non-fortress part of the city has some pretty areas though -- another place I need to go back to for my project!

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