34 Comments
User's avatar
Catherine Ann's avatar

Thanks for this, Betty. We are going back to Figeac in the Fall. I remember it as stunning!

Expand full comment
Betty Carlson's avatar

It is absolutely gorgeous — they’ve done a great job sprucing the city up. I used to drop by in the 90s and although I saw the potential, the city hadn’t undertaken its “urban renewal” phase. I’ll be writing one more post about it — there’s still a lot to tell.

Expand full comment
Portia's avatar

Yes, please do, Betty. I'm enjoying Figeac vicariously but hugely (I almost wrote 'bigly'). And long may the French Ministry of Culture live and prosper!

Expand full comment
Betty Carlson's avatar

Thanks for commenting Portia. I have one more Figeac post in me.

Expand full comment
herronali@gmail.com's avatar

I hope they just restored the blogs and didn’t start all over.

Expand full comment
Betty Carlson's avatar

I'm not sure what you are referring to...?

Expand full comment
herronali@gmail.com's avatar

I think I was in the wrong place..sorry

Expand full comment
Betty Carlson's avatar

No problem!

Expand full comment
herronali@gmail.com's avatar

Sorry - wrong place

Expand full comment
Veronica's avatar

I hope you visited the museum of writing while you were there. It’s fantastic — one of the best museums I’ve ever visited.

Expand full comment
Betty Carlson's avatar

Oh yes I did! I'm saving it for part 3/3.

Expand full comment
Sally Burke's avatar

What amazing buildings you have shared with us, and how wonderful that just by asking you are free to roam through the hotel.

Expand full comment
Betty Carlson's avatar

Yes, although I wondered about security. They must manage this differently during high season. Thank you for your comment!

Expand full comment
Paul Moxness's avatar

Very enlightening article, Betty. The hotel security executive in me was, like you, surprised to hear about the hotel/museum. Interesting concept indeed!

Expand full comment
Betty Carlson's avatar

I'm glad you read this, Paul, as I definitely thought of you and could have gone into more detail that would have interested, perhaps, only you.

So the city still owns this place, and there seems to be some sort of deal that the courtyard and views of the historical house have to stay open to the public. The office de tourisme lady definitely emphasized that "it was open to the public" and to "go through the hotel entrance." But to get to the courtyard, I walked through a hotel lounge area, had direct access to a hallway with rooms, and there were also rooms right off the area in my photo, plus I had clear access to the pool area which is high above it all.

Mind you, this was early February, there were no tourists and the hotel itself seemed fairly empty, and I think clearly have a low-threat profile. But I'm thinking they have to manage this differently in tourist season? If not I'm not so sure I'd want to stay in that place.

I also cut from my article that this place is part of a mini-mini-label called "Cité-Hôtels" that for the moment is only in Occitanie, includes only 4 hotels, and from what I can tell, only 2 are Mercures. Interesting!

https://www.cite-hotels.com/h

Expand full comment
Paul Moxness's avatar

Most Mercure-branded hotels are franchises that aren’t owned or operated by Accor. In this case it sounds like the city owns the property and has contracted Cité-Hôtels to operate it. They in turn have a franchise agreement with Accor that gives them som brand power. It’s not uncommon for owners or operators to have a mix of independent operations and branded franchises. You’ll often find they even own hotels that operate under competing brands.

It’s hard to tell how this hotel looks at balancing guest / property security while allowing museum visitors to wander through guest room corridors and lounges.

Expand full comment
Rachel Vogeleisen's avatar

Thank you for this post. This is a region in France I don’t know much about.

Expand full comment
Betty Carlson's avatar

Many don't! I wrote a post called “Occitanie, what's in a name?” that explained a bit about the whole region, but want to delve into it more in parallel to my writing about my travels. There was a poll and a lot of readers said they didn't know much about the area.

Expand full comment
Rachel Vogeleisen's avatar

It woukd be lovely to read more about it.🙌

Expand full comment
Susie Mawhinney's avatar

I've probably said this before, Figeac will always be a favourite for me! Alarmingly, although its only 25 minutes away, I haven't been over for months! At least it certainly feels like it - time for a trip to the market I think! x

Expand full comment
Betty Carlson's avatar

Yes, especially if we have nice spring weather! I wasn’t there for market day, so am plotting to get back eventually.

Expand full comment
Susie Mawhinney's avatar

I have a feeling, like all markets, its not as bustling as it used to be Betty, its a while since I’ve been as I said but I have a friend who lives in the centre of town who keeps me posted on Figeac news… it is still one of the best though!

Expand full comment
Betty Carlson's avatar

Indeed, markets are not as bustling as they used to be, but I decided to not say '“sadly.” Farmers have found new ways to get food out there: the AMAPs, the magasins paysans, breaking into la grand distrubution — for better or for worse — and even self-serve lockers. I can’t judge because I haven’t been an assiduous market-goer over the years.

When I saw the covered but not enclosed market square in Figeac, though, I really wanted to see what it looked like in action.

Expand full comment
Susie Mawhinney's avatar

The covered market is probably still the most bustling of the entire market Betty, but then its where all the food stands are it will always be! Let me know when you’re going next, maybe we could meet for coffee ? xx

Expand full comment
Betty Carlson's avatar

Or elsewhere -- will DM you!

Expand full comment
Lisa Cunningham DeLauney's avatar

That is a Mercure worth staying in, Betty! And I can't quite make our the heads on the Griffin - are they people?

Expand full comment
Betty Carlson's avatar

I think I missed the griffin; reading further it seems it is on the side entrance, which is the entrance to the living spaces, and I didn’t look at that part.

I did not stay at the Mercure, although now I regret it a bit! I had looked at it, but it was a little pricey for me. However, I didn’t realize that it was one of the town’s major attractions .

Expand full comment
Lisa Cunningham DeLauney's avatar

I just spent ages looking for Michelangelo’s angel on a sculpture in a church in Padua on a trip to Italy. These features can be tricky to find!

Expand full comment
Rachel Shenk's avatar

Another place to add to my list. And that blue sky!

Expand full comment
Betty Carlson's avatar

Figeac is splendid, a great pairing with Cahors, the préfecture of the Lot. That department also has plenty of charming villages. It’s not far away yet feels so different than my home area. I might go back next weekend, actually! I wasn’t there for the market.

Expand full comment
Véronique Savoye's avatar

A very enticing post about a very enticing town, Betty. I can get fascinated with architectural details and enjoyed learning more about those you shared here. No "griffon" at la Maison Griffon. Who knows what happened to it over the centuries? As for la "Maison Duchêne" I smiled at that tower, added in the 17th century as a status symbol. I wonder if it could have been a spiral staircase in the 14th century? That's typically where they would have been located. So many unsolved mysteries, so little time. Grateful to towns like Figeac who still make visitors pause and reflect. Grateful to those who feature them online. (Merci, too, for not resorting to the ubiquitous "photo dump" I recently ranted about in "Vignettes de France.") Bon weekend!

Expand full comment
Betty Carlson's avatar

The self-guided walking tour pamphlet emphasized in several places how much the houses had been "remaniées" over the centuries. That motivated me to go back to the OT, buy the book I had seen there, and get more detail. But even the book leaves one with questions as it covers hundreds of buildings, plus general history, neighborhoods, etc. Since Figeac is not that far, I might go back for a guided tour at some point.

Expand full comment
Véronique Savoye's avatar

“A guided tour is always a good idea” (the tour guide said.) ;-)

Expand full comment
Rita Fennell's avatar

Great article thanks! I think we tend to think buildings just arrived as they are! Now you mention the shutters they do look a later addition! All lovely though, these towns in between have escaped over development a bit haven’t they?

Expand full comment