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Lucy Hearne Keane's avatar

Le Grand Cafe looks so enticing. And I cannot resist the chocolate/sweet shops in France. They do it so well.

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Betty Carlson's avatar

This chocolate shop had quite a variety of other sweets too. I wish I could have got a photo inside.

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Elizabeth Anderson's avatar

Love the Art Nouveau/Belle Epoch flair. This town looks near to Vichy. I wonder how it fared during WWII. Thank you for these glimpses!

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Betty Carlson's avatar

It is near Vichy and I definitely want to get back to Vichy to do a write-up.

Moulins was one of the towns that found itself divided between the free and occupied zones, which meant there was an internal checkpoint many crossed over daily. I didn't delve into that too much but that division definitely marked the town for decades.

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David Gemeinhardt's avatar

I love a Belle Epoque café. I'll definitely go to the Grand Café if I ever get to Moulins.

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Betty Carlson's avatar

You would probably find some interest in the Bourbonnais area. The tourism authorities certainly make a lot of the link to the royalty!

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Sacha Cohen's avatar

I just adore those Belle Epoch places. Thanks for sharing these beautiful gems.

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Betty Carlson's avatar

Glad you enjoyed them. They aren't that frequent in these smaller towns.

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Pierre Guernier's avatar

Wow, who would have guessed that Moulins is hiding so many Art Nouveau gems? Thanks so much, Betty, for showcasing them with such flair! (I absolutely love the chocolaterie façade!)

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Betty Carlson's avatar

Yes, it seemed out of character somehow. Except for the Galeries, the places came to be thanks to three businessmen who had grand visions for the city.

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Lisa Cunningham DeLauney's avatar

The colours and lettering are beautiful, Betty. What a shame Le Café Américain cannot be revived!

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Betty Carlson's avatar

I suppose it could be? It had a bit of an out of the way location though.

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Véronique Savoye's avatar

Bonjour Betty. “De bien belles pépites” as the French say, in this second installment dedicated to the city of Moulins. Quite tempting I must say if I ever find myself in this corner of La Belle France :-)

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Betty Carlson's avatar

There is quite a bit of interest in l’Allier, including Saint-Pourçain wine!

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Glen Campbell's avatar

The picture of Le Grand Café showing the seating next to the orchestra makes it look like pretty close quarters there - specifically the seating for the customers. We both know that seating for the orchestral musicians is always cramped. Is it just the photo that makes it seem so, or is it a tight space in reality?

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Betty Carlson's avatar

Yes, it was rather small, but I didn’t realize that fact about the place when I was there, so I didn’t think of it in those terms. I suspect these were actually small ensembles.

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Cathy Thome's avatar

Wow- Le Grand Café is gorgeous!!

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Betty Carlson's avatar

I always appreciate your comments, Cathy. I wished I had gotten better photos but that’s a little tricky in restaurants and cafés.

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Daniel Catena's avatar

A fascinating story! That's one of the (many) beautiful aspects of Paris - each building has a treasure trove of stories and history. The Grand Cafe is no different.

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Betty Carlson's avatar

Well, it is different though in that it's not in Paris! It looks like it could be, however.

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Susie Mawhinney's avatar

Quelle belle époque! I love the background info on Coco Chanel, the architecture of the era so beautifully maintained in Moulins is incredibly enticing too Betty, how did you ever manage to leave!

What is it that always feels so romantic about these years of our history that seem to be absent elsewhere?

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Betty Carlson's avatar

Yes, those vestiges of La Belle Epoque were enticing and surprising in Moulins, rather a modest place overall. But it actually wasn't that hard to leave compared to some other towns I've been to.

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Wendy Gedney's avatar

The Grand cafe looks incredible. It reminds me of Le Train Bleu a little with the painted ceilings, they’re so whimsical.

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Betty Carlson's avatar

I'm afraid it doesn't quite rival Le Train Bleu, but it is still very fancy for a small town. You don't find cafés like it everywhere and it comes as a surprise since Moulins is so unassuming.

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Robin Rivers's avatar

I loved this post today. Beautiful architecture.

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Betty Carlson's avatar

Thank you for your comment! That style is not so frequent in smaller French towns.

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Robin Rivers's avatar

That's what caught my attention. Mostly, I find medieval or Renaissance as I move through the countryside. This last year, a lot of Napoleonic in the northeast. So, this is a treat.

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Betty Carlson's avatar

Are you on a tour of France? This sounds interesting!

I am interested in, although far from knowledgeable about, all types of French architecture, but if I stumble upon Art Nouveau or Art Déco in the middle of nowhere, that’s a real find.

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Robin Rivers's avatar

I spend a month every year in France and try to make my way through the smaller villages and towns. I am headed south this next trip, but may just have to make a stop in the middle now. :)

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Betty Carlson's avatar

A few towns in the "middle" of France that I would especially recommend are Bourges, Auxerre and Vichy. They are in different administrative regions but not all that far from each other by car, although train connections might be complicated. However I would hate to advise anybody away from a trip to the South. Which part of it are you aiming for? (If you care to share.)

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Robin Rivers's avatar

Thank you for the recommendations. I am headed to the Luberon, Loumarin and the little villages around it in particular. This one is mostly meant to be on foot and bike, trying not to "Do the Luberon" in the traditional sense, but to walk and ride, paint and write without any time or sightseeing requirements. I do have a few days before and after that part begins and had considered Avignon or Cavaillon.

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jodi {diaryofaladytraveler}'s avatar

Completely swoonworthy photos, Betty! I especially like the facade of Cafe Americain.

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Betty Carlson's avatar

Thank you! I was disappointed in the Grand Café ones because it was hard to get good angles and I felt I was being observed, so I snapped them furtively.

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jodi {diaryofaladytraveler}'s avatar

I think they're beautiful - but I understand being frustrated by photos!

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Caroline McCormick-Clarke🐆🧀🎨✍️'s avatar

Betty, I love the research, history and your beautiful photos of these art nouveau/belle epoque cafes, bars and shops. Just wonderful.

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Betty Carlson's avatar

Thank you Caroline! I was quite disappointed with the photos of Le Grand Café but it was tricky. We had just had a drink on the terrasse and I had to snap them furtively.

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