Four Cahors should-sees

Because I don't believe in must-sees -- at least not anymore

I’m brimming with ideas of what to share about my overnighter to the Préfecture of the Lot department in SW France, home to 20,141 Cadurciens. But don’t expect any tidy Top Ten lists or orders about what you must see — just informed ideas about what you should see.

1. La Bibliothèque Patrimoniale et de Recherches

Unexpected downpours led me to this library, and it turned out to be the most magical moment of my trip.

I felt like I was trespassing as I yanked on the barely marked entry door and headed up the unassuming staircase. A few drenched El Camino pilgrims followed me.

Once we were welcomed into the establishment, we all gasped.

Noticing our reaction, the librarian proudly explained that not every city the size of Cahors has such a rich, not to mention gorgeous, research library. But Cahors was home to one of France’s first universities, founded in 1331. This led to a lively printing industry, as professors — and only much later, students — needed books.

The librarian also pointed out that the collection would be even richer had the University of Toulouse not dissolved and absorbed the Cahors university in 1751, absconding with scads of books. I think she is still somewhat pissed off about this.

But the pilgrims and I could only gaze in wonder.

As of this writing, the library is marked “temporarily closed” on Google, which is false. But opening hours are limited, so check here before planning a visit

2. La Cathédrale Saint Etienne — especially for its cloisters

The cathedral is smack-dab in the old town center, giving its exterior few decent photo opps, except from above.

In his fascinating 1958 travel guide South from Toulouse, Andrew Shirley dresses an unflattering portrait of the Cahors cathedral. It’s too politically incorrect to quote; suffice to say that the words ugly, matriarch and hairstyle are used.

I know it’s wrong to think this and even more wrong to write it, but I also found Saint Stephen’s a bit of a hodgepodge, both inside and out. I gasped at nothing — except for the cloisters.

The Cloisters!

They may be the finest I’ve seen in a smaller town: still a complete quadrant and exuding a sense of peace and shelter. I was the only person visiting, which allowed them to serve their original purpose: a place for prayer or contemplation, rather than snarfing down ham sandwiches in the shade.

One accesses the cloisters via the cathedral, making the latter a “will-see”.

3. Le Pont Valentré

Notice the "place-to-be" youth hostel rooftop  to the left -- more on this below     

I’m a recovering acrophobic. My evening stroll across Le Pont Valentré moved me, but not in the way I had hoped. Be warned: it’s darn high up there and the side walls are darn low. If you dare approach them, the view of the Lot river below is spectacular. I dared, but didn’t dare take out my phone near those edges, so you won’t be getting that spectacular view here.

I made it safely, albeit shakily, to the other side, and was able to properly admire the city’s emblematic medieval bridge. Although it was built as a fortress, it was never attacked — but with over 200,000 visitors a year, it has served the city well indeed.

You will find peaceful places to view the bridge on the non-Cahors side, especially if you go after the opening hours of the Maison de l’Eau, a 19th-century water pumping station.

La Maison de l’Eau

I loved this side, quiet and full of greenery, so I explored it quite fully. However, I was a bit alarmed to discover how many ways one could just plop into the Lot.

The walk-the-plank locks sans gates and the meters-high, abrupt river banks seemed extremely ill-advised for a site that welcomes so many visitors every year, especially given the number of young travellers partying it up in the sun on the nearby youth hostel rooftop. But at least you are warned not to go swimming.

You should of course visit Le Pont Valentré — it’s stunning. Wear good shoes to navigate the cobblestones, and if you’re with children or have drunk one too many on the rooftop, proceed with the utmost caution.

4. Les Jardins Secrets

Cahors boasts 25 “secret gardens,” and I had grand plans to visit them and even make them the sole subject of my next newsletter, but frickin’ inclement weather got in my way.

Do put them on your Cahors list. Word has it they’re a must-see.

Thank you for reading about part of my Cahors experience, or at least looking at the pictures.

Next week I’ll share my two favorite places in Cahors, as well as information about the city’s impressive urban renewal projects. I’m also posting bits and bobs in my Substack notes — for example, the fountain that had six dog heads doing the spurting.